Friday 27 August 2021

Queensland - New South Wales April-May 2021 Julatten - Quilpie Part 1

 Part 2    Part 3


Legend:- Green - Campsite:   Purple - Caravan Park:   Orange - Day Use Area: 

Day 1 23/4/21
 
Set off at 10.30 in dull overcast weather stopping in Mareeba to stock up on last minute fresh veggies. Continued on through Atherton and onto Mt. Hypipamee National Park (The Crater) for lunch.

T-van at Mt. Hypipamee National Park

Most of the journey was driving through drizzly rain. Arrived at 12.45pm and had our lunch in the shelter at the picnic area, which kept us dry. 

White-throated Treecreeper

After leaving Mt. Hypipamee our tyre monitors started to play up due to low batteries in the sensors. Managed to find six batteries at two different places in Ravenshoe. Continued onto Archers Creek Rest Area, where the rain eased off and we managed to get our afternoon coffee and fit the batteries into the tyre monitors. Next was Mt. Garnet where we fueled up at the Top Shop, not cheap fuel here anymore ($1.37.9lt), new owners since our last visit. Still gloomy weather with 100% cloud cover, but at least it was not raining. Continued on to Pinnaredi Station Stay & Café, our home for the next three nights. We were here to continue Birdlife North Queensland and North Queensland Natural History Group ongoing bird surveys of the property. Met up with fellow Birdlife members and set up camp.

Camp at Pinnarendi

Pinnarendi Station is at 800m so it was cooler than we had anticipated, mainly due to the wind chill factor from the strong winds. It was still overcast with cloud cover, which was stretching from the coast, Cairns was experiencing heavy rain. It had been a busy day so an early night was in order.

Day 2 24/4/21

Another gloomy overcast morning to greet us, so we had a slow start to our surveys. Took a walk to Garden Dam, Big Dam and Number 1 Dam, where we conducted 20 minute surveys at each.

Garden Dam

The area around Big Dam had plenty of flowering Melalueca viridiflora attracting a few species of honeyeater, including Banded, Rufous-throated (all immature birds), Brown, and Scarlet plus Little and Noisy Friarbird. We were particularly pleased to catch up with the banded and rufous-throated.

Banded Honeyeater

Also found an interesting insect a Blistered pyrgomorph Monistria pustulifera, which is a species of wingless grasshopper of the family Pyrgomorphidae, endemic to Australia.

Blistered pyrgomorph Monistria pustulifera

Otherwise it was very quiet with a distinct lack of small birds. A highlight along the way was a Square-tailed Kite gliding over the tops of the trees. Another member of our team arrived mid- morning to survey the butterflies. Mid-afternoon we set off in the vehicles to survey four previously identified areas. Once again it was hard work finding birds, a Whistling Kite and a Wedge-tailed Eagle were the only raptors and a Varied Sittela was seen by one observer. Cleanskin Dam produced two adult and three immature Plumed Whistling Duck plus a chorus of Northern Banjo Frog along with a Squatter Pigeon on the road.

Squatter Pigeon

The evening was spent at the café with the group having some excellent Pizzas, highly recommended. We all ate too much! Still cool and windy.

Pizza at the Café

Day 3 25/4/21

Nothing new to start the day with overcast drizzly weather. Coffee, breakfast and off for surveys before 8.00am. Had an Australian Bustard by the airstrip road. Arrived at our first survey site and saw five Australian Bustard on the opposite of the road to our survey area plus an Australian Kestrel and a Swamp Harrier fly over.

Australian Bustard

Very quiet for birds at this site and a further two survey sites. Arrived at Cleanskin Dam, where we stopped for morning coffee and cake. Appropriately as it was Anzac Day we had some Anzac biscuits. On the dam was an Australasian Grebe, two Pacific Black Duck and an Plumed Egret.

Plumed Egret

Back to camp to rest up and have lunch. Mid-afternoon some of the group went for a walk along the road to the rubbish dump and back to camp via Big Dam and Garden Dam. Very quiet with little activity in the flowering Melaleuca viridiflora around Big Dam in contrast to the day before when there was a good variety of honeyeaters. As we returned to the camp the drizzle became more intense, but cleared for an evening around the fire-pit talking and another early night.

Day 4 26/4/21

Up at 6.00am to be greeted by overcast and cloudy weather, so headed off for a welcome hot shower. Had a coffee before packing up and ready to leave by 8.00, but first we had a breakfast date at the café. Had eggs benedict and coffee to get us going on the next leg of our journey. Left at 10.00am and travelled the Savannah Way to Mt. Surprise. The highway, which is part of Highway 1, continues to Georgetown, but we turned off before then onto the Einasleigh Road. Just before this turn off there is a stretch of road with a narrow strip of bitumen for about 5kms, it was along this strip that a car/caravan going too fast flicked up a stone and chipped our windscreen! Again another chip, our third in less than a year, a previous one had resulted in a new windscreen. Continued along the Einasleigh Road until we found the Jardine Lagoon campground and set up camp in the deserted camp ground. A few Radjah Shelduck were on the lagoon to greet us.

Radjah Shelduck

Checked out the birds, plenty around the lagoon, before lunch. After lunch re-adjusted the T-van wheel bearings and put a new diaphragm and gasket in the water pump, which had been playing up, seem to fix the problem but not 100%. The Jardine Station owner came around in the late afternoon to collect the $20.00 camping fee; there is another camping area on the station alongside the Einasleigh River. Quiet evening on our own.

Day 5 27/4/21

Another 6.00am start with a coffee before we went for a walk around the lagoon and surrounds. First up we were greeted by a Black-necked Stork foraging along the edge with several Rajah Shelduck. A group of Plumed Whistling Duck were swimming at the far end of the lagoon, but a few were perched in the trees alongside the water.


Plumed Whistling-Duck
 
Then a pair of Eastern Osprey flew over to our surprise as we were right on the edge of their distribution from the east coast. They must have travelled along the nearby Einasleigh River. Two Brolga flew in and a pair of Black Kite posed for photos in the early morning light.

Black Kite

After breakfast and packing up we turned onto the Einasleigh Road to join up with the Gregory Development Road which took us to the Kennedy Development Road. Stopped at the junction for a morning coffee fix then headed towards Hughenden. Lindsay drove for an hour before we found a place to pull off the road for lunch. Were checked over by a party of Weebill and a few Striated Pardalote who had a nest nearby, nothing else of note here.

Weebill

The part of the Kennedy Development Road three to four stretches unsealed. It is part of the Inland Highway, designed mainly to get trucks coming from the Gulf region of Northern Queensland to southern states off the east coast route, cutting time and easing congestion on the coast highways. Reached Hughenden about 3.00 pm and looked for the windscreen repair garage, but it was closed or deserted – hard to tell. Booked into the Allan Terry Caravan Park for the night to charge up all our IT toys and to have a welcome shower. Full moon tonight but not the pink moon we were promised.

Day 6 28/4/21

Decided to get on the road to Winton early and have breakfast along the way. Stopped at our favourite bore around 9.00am and Lindsay cooked up egg and bacon sandwiches. A few birds around the dam including a juvenile Horsfield’s Bronze-Cuckoo, White-winged Triller, White-breasted Woodswallow and Sacred Kingfisher.

Horsfield's Bronze-Cuckoo - juvenile

By now the sun was out and a few raptors were flying around, Black Kite, Brown Falcon and Nankeen Kestrel were along the road, some also perched on the power poles. Stopped at Corfield for morning coffee and a loo break before the last leg into Winton. Two windscreen repairers here, the first was a mirror of the Hughenden one – no sign of anyone working here so we headed to the second one. Central Motors in town had people working, but they had run out of the epoxy to fix chips and had been waiting for it to arrive. Booked into Pelican Caravan Park had lunch and a rest. Spent the afternoon on the phone trying to arrange the windscreen repair. O’Briens in Longreach said probably a new one was required due to the size of the chip. Anyway, to cut a long story short we booked in for May 4th to asses whether we need a new windscreen or not. Late afternoon we went off to the Winton Wastewater Treatment Plant to check out the waterbirds. A few duck, Pacific Black Duck, Pink-eared Duck, Hardhead, Grey Teal, European Coot and Australasian Grebe plus a few Australian Swamphen.

Pink-eared Duck

Little Grassbird and Australian Reed Warbler were heard and occasionally glimpsed. Back to the T-van and a quiet evening apart from a few noisy trucks.

Day 7 29/4/21

Woke to 15c. After breakfast we took a drive out to Pelican Lagoon, which was not very exciting. The road was across black soil and very dry and bumpy, best bird here was probably Sacred Kingfisher.

Pelican Lagoon Art

Then drove to Long Waterhole and were pleasantly surprised by the lack of campers. Last visit in 2019 it was very crowded. Recorded 17 species around the lagoon, but nothing on the water. We decided to return and camp here tomorrow night before we go to Bladensburg NP. Drove around checking sites and found another T-van camped before we went back into town. Fueled up, visited the butcher and bakery and saw three T-vans parked up. Went back after the bakery to find the owners ready to take off, had a chat and left them to continue on their way to Kakadu NP. Back to our T-van and lunch. Had a quiet relaxing afternoon. Late afternoon went back to Winton Wastewater Treatment Plant, much the same as yesterday, but there was a new trip and year tick, three Hoary-headed Grebe - two adults and an immature.

Hoary-headed Grebe

Back to camp for a shower before we went to Tattersalls Hotel for an evening meal. Had to wait an hour for the food to arrive, looked like they forgot us as others who arrived after us were served. No apology for the long wait. Back to the T-van for a de-caff coffee.

Day 8 30/4/21

Awoke before 5.00am to some horrible loudspeaker noise coming from the town direction with garbled voices. Slow relaxed start to the day, packing up, breakfast and down to the Spar store to top up with a few bits of food. Then off to Long Waterhole, where we found a suitable camp for the night beside the water. Went with the quick setup on the T-van as we were only here for a night. The sun was shining so the solar panels were pressed into service to keep up with the power usage. The waterhole was pretty quiet with the coffee coloured water not very inviting. The highlight was a Black-tailed Native Hen foraging along the shoreline. Other new trip birds seen during the day included two Royal Spoonbill and a White-necked Heron.

White-necked Heron

A couple of Australian Pelican glided by and a party of 13 Apostlebird came looking for handouts, but were disappointed. Had lunch and a snooze before giving the car a quick once over to clean the red mud off it. A couple came to say hello and tell us they had a T-van back home, but were in a caravan for their trip this time. They had seen Lindsay’s latest posting on the T-van Facebook page.

Day 9 1/5/21

Had a lie in until 6.40! Leisurely start to the morning with a walk to the end of the lagoon, where there were some budgies coming in to drink and a few Black-fronted Dotterel. Back at camp there were eight Australian Wood Duck foraging in the weeds posing for photos along with an Australian Raven.

Australian Wood Duck

Australian Raven
 
Had a cooked breakfast of egg and bacon on toast. Packed up and drove into Winton to fill up with drinking water. Then off to Bladensburg National Park, where we found the Bough Shed Waterhole camp ground. Only one camp so we had a good choice of sites. Set up and a morning coffee, whilst we were getting acquainted with the very friendly flies! Solar Panels were put out and were working well. Spent the afternoon playing around with the spare camera, (Olympus OM-D-5mkll). Met a couple from Adelaide who were part time birders having progressed with their field guides from Caley, Slaters and now Simpson and Day. A Black-breasted Buzzard was a highlight of a late afternoon walk.

Black-breasted Buzzard

Plenty of Common Wallaroo (Euro) to take photos of.

Common Wallaroo (Euro)

Day 10 2/5/21

No rush this morning, a cuppa and a walk down to the main track produced an Australian Hobby, a few flocks of Budgerigar and Cockatiel. After breakfast we took a trip down to Engine Hole stopping along the way at the 20km jump-up to check out the Spinifex Flat area for a reported Opalton Grasswren, none seen but we did see our first Spinifex Pigeon.

Spinifex Pigeon

Sitting at Engine Hole for morning coffee overlooking the water hole we saw 36 Apostlebird coming in to drink. A pair of Galah were also watching the proceedings. Back along the road again at Spinifex Flat we saw a bird running around in the Spinifex and posing for photos, it was a Brown Songlark, new for the trip list.

Brown Songlark

Also here were flocks of Zebra Finch well in excess of 100. Back at camp our friends from Townsville arrived just before lunch as well as some other friends from Bundaberg, who we had not seen for at least 10 years! They also knew our Townsville friends so another gossip session ensued. Relaxing afternoon before going out to walk along the sand ridge looking for previously seen Chestnut-breasted Quail-thrush – dipped again. Nibbles and talk session before dinner.
.
Day 11 3/5/21

Up and off down the road by 7.40am with our Townsville friends who led the way to Skull Hole. Found a few birds here including 30+ Crested Pigeon, Spinifex Pigeon and Common Bronzewing. I managed to slip over on some loose gravel, but luckily no damage apart from a few scrapes. From here we travelled a short distance to a known spot for Rufous-crowned Emu-wren. After searching we found a Spinifexbird and only the ladies saw the Emu-wren plus Purple-backed Fairy-wren. I did see four Hooded Robin though. Continue on to Goshawk Dam for morning coffee, here we had Red-backed Kingfisher, Red-capped Robin and Galah drinking.

Galah

Continued along the track to the Scammy Gorge road encountering a few very steep creek crossings along the way. There was some water around Scammy Gorge plus a long lagoon with White-necked Heron and Three Hoary-headed Grebe. Drove up the steep road to the Scammy Lookout, where we had lunch before heading to the Homestead. Had eight Banded Lapwing along the way.

Banded Lapwing

Stopped at the Homestead and talked to a ranger! Next stop was Paradise Lagoon, where Zebra Finch were bathing. Back to camp to relax and get organised for tomorrows trip to Longreach.

Day 12 4/5/21

Up early for a quick getaway, said our goodbye's to our Townsville friend's and headed into Winton. Then the A2 to Longreach, which was uneventful and a not too interesting stretch of road. Went straight to the agents, for O'Brien's windscreen repairs at the Shell garage, where we discussed repair or replace. Too big a chip to repair so replacement windscreen is on the cards, but they suggested we could finish our trip and get it fixed when we get home. Likelihood of another chip is quite high so decided to put up with the chip which luckily was in the centre of the screen. Exchanged gas bottles here and fueled up. Then booked into the Longreach Caravan Park, 1970’s vintage in need of major renovations. Anyway we had a powered site, showers and laundry facilities, so it did the job for us. By now it was lunch time so back into town to the café next to the bakery for some food. No grain bread so we went next door and got the last two grain rolls. Then back to the café for coffee and to eat our rolls. Whilst we were there who should walk in but more friends this time from Melbourne and Brisbane, could not have planned it better! Sat talking whilst they had their lunch. We said our farewells outside and noticed a few of our government ministers including our Queensland premier Anastacia Palaszczuk jumping in a car after a rural cabinet meeting. Later in the afternoon we went to the Longreach Sewage Treatment Works, where we had a few Grey Teal, Hardhead and two Hoary-headed Grebe amongst some other waterbirds.

Hardhead

Day 13 5/5/21

Cooled down to 15ºC overnight. An easy, no rush start to the day. Put the second battery on charge and made sure all our other devices were charged as well as filling up the water tank before we headed off. First stop to top up with supplies at the very good IGA. It was now morning coffee time so we went back to the café next to the bakery for a coffee before we headed south along the Jundah Road, which had very little traffic on it. Most of the way to the Lochern National Park turn off is single lane bitumen with a few passing places and no rest areas. The road west to Lochern National Park and Noonbah Station it is all gravel with maximum speed of 80kph on the straight and a lot slower around a few sharp bends. Arrived at the unmanned Lochern Ranger Base at 12.30pm and had our lunch on the veranda at the closed visitor centre. Then travelled the short distance to Noonbah Station to be greeted by Angus and Karen. Chatted around the table whilst having coffee and cakes. Angus then took us on a quick tour showing us a new camp site and several other places to go for birds. Set up camp, at the new site, next to a dam where we spent the rest of the day relaxing, birding and an early night as it began cooling down.

Noonbah Station Camp

Day 14 6/5/21

It certainly did cool down to 8ºC! The coldest morning so far on the trip. A warming cup of coffee got us going so we headed up the nearby escarpment, but not much bird life up there. However, back on the flat a flock of 20 Pink Cockatoo were feeding on the ground, perching on trees and coming in to drink at the dam.

Pink Cockatoo

After breakfast we drove out along the airstrip, but did not encounter any birds until we were almost at the western end. A party of nine Spinifex Pigeon were foraging in the vegetation by the runway perimeter fence. Then back onto the road and across the Vergemont channels to turn off beside the Mesa and on to Big Dam. The dam was at low level with the only waterbird present a Royal Spoonbill a big contrast to our previous visits.

Royal Spoonbill

A few other birds were around including Galah who were drinking, more photo opportunities. After morning coffee decided to go back to the Mesa and climb to the top, not very high so it was fairly easy. Not much around apart from a pair of Hooded Robin, but the views from the top were great. Back for lunch and a snooze. The afternoon was spent relaxing and sitting around the dam trying to take photos of the birds coming in to drink, mainly Crested Pigeon, Spiny-cheeked and White-plumed Honeyeater.

Crested Pigeon

Spiny-cheeked Honeyeater

Cooling down for another cold night.

Day 15 7/5/21

Another 8ºC morning. Went for a walk along the road to warm up and got the news that my soccer team, Arsenal, only drew at home and were out of the Europa cup final. Back for a breakfast of porridge before driving out to the airstrip again. This time we found Splendid Fairy-wren plus a few other species. Then ended up on the wrong road to the dam we were supposed to be going to, eventually backtracked and found the right road. A few Australian Wood Duck and two Grey Teal plus Galah and Zebra Finch were here.

Zebra Finch - adult female

Then onto another dam, on the boundary with Lochern National Park, which was more productive as we had a Pink-eared Duck, two Australian Wood Duck, three Australian Grebe, 2 Black-fronted Dotterel along with Galah, Cockatiel, two Pink Cockatoo and Zebra Finch coming in to drink. From here we drove to Bluebush Lagoon in Lochern Lochern National Park, but this was dry so no birds. Then headed to Stockyard Dam on Waterloo Station, where there was more Australian Wood Duck, a Hardhead and a Grey Teal. A Brown Falcon soared overhead whilst on the ground there were 18 Willie Wagtail, 50+ Zebra Finch and several honeyeater species. Time to return to camp for lunch passing patches of Flinders Grass on the way back. Had lunch and a restful afternoon as it was too hot to do much.

Noonbah Station

Day 16 8/5/21

Not so cold this morning, a steamy12ºC! Wake up coffee before tidying up the camp and having a cooked breakfast, scrambled eggs and beans on toast, good start. Packed up and called in to the homestead where Karen was looking after a joey. Angus was out showing some friends around Waterloo Station. Said good bye to Karen and headed of to Stonehenge. Turned off the Noonbah Road to travel along a new stretch or road for us, more like a narrow track, but in quite good condition. Arrived at Stonehenge in time for morning coffee, nice little settlement. Met a couple in a Kimberley Kamper who were also heading for the Jundah Caravan Park like us. They were from the Sunshine Coast. Then back onto the main Longreach-Jundah Road. Had a break at Swanvale Lookout before the final stretch into Jundah. Booked into the Jundah Caravan Park and put up the T-van quick setup as we were only here for a night. Hooked up all the devises to the power and charged them. Had lunch and a lazy afternoon catching up with paperwork and eBird. Plenty of House Sparrow around along with noisy Little Corella and Galah. A surprise was a Blue-faced Honeyeater, which must be at the extremity of its distribution west and south.

Blue-faced Honeyeater

A helicopter called into the pub late afternoon, no doubt to stock up on beer supplies! Quiet evening smelling the fatty foodstuffs from the nearby pub and a few dogs howling and barking.

Day 17 9/5/21

Early start, coffee, breakfast and pack up. Called into a local fuel station to fill up (Diesel $144.9lt) then headed out of town along the Quilpie Road. Some bitumen in places, the rest pretty good gravel to the Welford National Park turn off. Headed into the park and drove the 12km to Little Boomerang Waterhole campground. There were four camps with three of them together. We had a chat with them all before we had our morning coffee break. An Australian Hobby was flying around the campground before having a rest on a dead tree branch.

Australian Hobby

Drove out along one of the park drives to join up with the entrance road back to the main Quilpie Road. From here the road was not so good with a few bull dust holes and rough gravel. Reached the junction of the Quilpie-Windora Road and stopped at the rest area before driving to the next rest area along the single lane bitumen, passing another T-van heading to Windora. Pulled off the road for the cattle trucks and a few speeding caravanners, however most slowed down and pulled off the road like us. Lindsay drove this section. Arrived at the rest area at the junction of the Eromanga Road and brewed up a coffee. Whilst here another T-van pulled in so we had a chat with the couple. Drove through Quilpie then tried to find The Lake campground. After one false start we found it and booked in. We were even offered a job here! Set up camp beside the lake.

Day 18 10/5/21

Quick look at the lake first up with a cup of coffee. A few Pied and Great Cormorants were flying down the lake for their feeding spot and a couple of pelican cruised by. Took a short walk beside the lake, where the cormorant, darter and Yellow-billed Spoonbill were roosting along with an Australian Pelican looking uncomfortable resting on a fence post. Also found a few Grey Teal and some adult Eurasian Coot with immatures swimming around in the shallow water.

Australian Pelican

Made use of the laundry before breakfast, which was interrupted trying to photograph three Grey-crowned Babbler who were foraging around the camp.

Grey-crowned Babbler

After breakfast we took a longer walk along the lake, a few flowering trees were attracting Spiny-cheeked Honeyeater and a White-necked Heron was foraging in the shallow water. A few flocks of Budgerigar were flying around and landing in the trees before coming down for a drink. Nearby was a Whistling Kite sitting in a nest, but still no small birds.

Budgerigar

Back to camp for morning coffee and cake. Yesterdays couple in a T-van arrived after a night camping alongside the river. Sorted out more washing before going into town to try and find somewhere for lunch. Called into the very old fashion bakery, where Lindsay got a pie and I had a sad cheese and tomato sandwich with no green salad despite asking for some, plus a coffee (?). Took a tour around town before calling into the butcher and Foodworks for supplies. Hot day today 32ºC. Lazy afternoon catching up on the diary and eBird surveys again. Met another couple of birders and swapped stories. Quiet night.

Queensland - New South Wales April-May 2021 Quilpie to Moree Part 2

 Part 1     Part 3

Day 19 11/5/21 

One last look at the lake before packing up and having breakfast and headed through Quilpie. Turned off the Windora Road and headed along the Thargomindah Road, a road we had last travelled in August 2004, when it was unsealed. We had camped along the road and in the morning noticed some black clouds rolling in so we packed up fast and headed for Thargomindah. Unfortunately the rain came quickly and we found ourselves slipping all over the red dirt road, but made it to Thargomindah. Here we met lots of people trying to get to Birdsville for the races, but the roads were closed due to flooding. Meanwhile back to the present heading down the Thargomindah Road we thought about stopping at Toompine for a coffee, but it didn't look very exciting, so we travelled a short distance further until we found a suitable place to pull off. What an inspired choice of a place to stop as we had some good birds here, our first thornbills, Buff-rumped and also four Bourke’s Parrot flew in and landed in front of us for reasonable views. They hid in the low shrubs so it was difficult to get a good photo.


Bourke's Parrot

Across the road from the Bourke's Parrot we could hear another bird calling so we investigated and found a Rufous Songlark.

Rufous Songlark

Continued along the sealed road, which changed to a few stretches of gravel before going back to sealed road to join up with the Eulo road for the last 7km into Thargomindah. We went straight to the Spar shop for some vegetables, but the weekly delivery hadn't arrived yet so we just had to go without. Fueled up at the roadhouse, which looked the same as our 2004 visit. However, the price of fuel had changed as in 2004 it had just gone over $1 per litre! Drove down to the Explorers Caravan Park, but there was no powered sites available. However we were offered a site at the old caravan park, which did have power so we opted to go there. Set up camp on the dusty ground next to an old concrete slab only to find the power points were not working. Phoned up the Explorers Caravan Park, they said they would get an electrician to check it. After waiting a while nobody came so we packed up and changed sites, one with working power. So we plugged in all the devices and had lunch. Went for a walk along the river in the afternoon with thousands of White-browed and Masked Woodswallow filling the sky above.

White-browed Woodswallow

Back to camp where it was cooling down so we decided to put up the tent and do away with the quick set up. Good move as it kept cooling down and we could retreat to the tent out of the chilly wind.

Day 20 12/5/21

Cold start to the morning 6ºC. Woken up at 4.00am by truck driver starting and leaving engine running for 10 mins. Managed to get back to sleep eventually. Packed up quickly and went to the Dump Point, where Lindsay directed me down a short cut and into a mud hole, which covered the undersides of the T-van and Prado. Emptied the Porta-Potti (portable toilet), but no water in the tap for refill, however luckily nearby was a great free truck wash-down pad. So we got some water from here and then spent 10 minutes hosing down the T-van and Prado with the high pressure hose – great facility. Then off to Lake Bindagolly National Park 45km away to have our breakfast. Found a spot in the Bush Camping area opposite the National Park and overlooking a lagoon. The lagoon had a few birds foraging in the shallow water, 128 Red-Kneed Dotterel were a highlight, 30+ Red-capped Dotterel and 11 Silver Gulls were trip ticks. Other waterbirds here included both Yellow-billed and Royal Spoonbill.

Red-kneed Dotterel

After a cooked breakfast we headed out onto the Eulo Road following this until we turned off towards Currawinya National Park. Lindsay took over driving here along the dirt road on a section which had not been graded yet. We met the road crew grading the road heading north. From this point the road was good all the way into the Ourimperee waterhole bush camp, situated behind the Currawinya Woolshed. The road had recently been closed due to rain and was again closed after our visit.

Ourimperee Waterhole Camp

We had pre-booked (a condition of camping in Queensland National Parks) so set up camp overlooking the Ourimperee Waterhole and had lunch. Afternoon coffee was sitting beside the waterhole at a pleasant 21ºc, but the birding was slow. After dinner listened to "A Birders Guide Podcast", interviewing Mike Potter, who was embarking on a big year to try and break the record for birds seen in South Australia in one year (2021). Did a quick spotlight around the camp in the evening and found this spider, which is a sub adult female Orb-Weaver, possibly genus Eriophora or perhaps Backobourkia. (thanks for this information Greg Anderson).

Orb-Weaver - sub adult female

Day 21 13/5/21

Coldest night yet, down to 3ºC! so stayed in bed until 7.00am. After a warming coffee went for a walk along the Ourimperee waterhole and had Mulga Parrot and Mallee Ringneck, which was very nice. Mixed flocks of woodswallow were soaring overhead with a few coming down to feed on the eucalyptus blossom, mainly White-browed with a few Masked.

White-browed Woodswallow

Back to camp for porridge to keep us warm. Then off to the Ranger Station, where we arrived in time to catch three rangers leaving the information centre, had a quick chat with them. We commented on the amount of water around and they said there had been two good years of over 200mm of rain. Then tried to find the Lakes Road, but lack of signage threw us for a while as well as the info map showing “you are here” in the wrong place, eventually found it. From the Rangers Station you have to go towards Hungerford for a few kilometers then take a right turn at the next information board, but still no signs say lakes this way. Continuing along this road we eventually saw signs to the lakes. Went to the freshwater Lake Numalla first and had a coffee at the picnic shelter along with several pairs of Zebra Finch who had nests with chicks in the roof. The nest is not exactly a work of art!

Zebra Finch - female

Zebra Finch nest

Walked about 100m to the lake shore, but most of the birds were too far away to identify. However, huge numbers of cormorants flew past at a distance, mainly Little Black (500+) and Little Pied or Pied (500+). Then headed off to the saltwater Lake Wyara 6km away, here a lookout allowed us to see some of the lake, which had plenty of birds on it. Eurasian Coot were the most numerous with 523 counted, also 78 Grey Teal and 51 Black Swan with 17 cygnets plus a few other waterbirds.

Eurasian Coot - some of the 523 counted

Backtracked to Whip Dam and to have lunch, not many birds here. Stopped off at Lake Kaponyee but only had one White-necked Heron and 18 Australian Wood Duck. A dam at the junction of the Lakes and the Granites Road was more productive. Highlight here was two adult Pink-eared Duck with five chicks and two Grey Teal with four chicks, there were 14 more Grey Teal, 35 Australian Wood-Duck and 16 Hoary-headed Grebe plus a few bush birds. Back to camp to relax. The late afternoon began to cool off and by the time the sun went down it was 19ºC, looks like another cold night ahead.

Day 22 14/5/21

Positively warm this morning only down to 8ºC. Porridge to start the day before we drove to the Granite’s, a collection of large rounded rocks. We had been here before in 2019 and the birding was good, this time it was slow with none of the Crimson Chats we saw last time. However, good birds beat species numbers with a pair of White-backed Swallow flew over, always nice to see. Then as we were leaving we saw them again, this time perched in a dead tree for a few average photos.

White-backed Swallow

Also here were three Hall’s Babbler along with the usual suspects Crested Pigeon and Yellow-throated Miner. Decided to go back to the dam at the Lakes Road junction for morning coffee, good move as we found a lone female Freckled Duck. Much the same birds as yesterday with fewer Hoary-headed Grebe and more Australian Wood Duck, a pair of Yellow-billed Spoonbill and a pair of Brown Treecreeper were new additions to our list for here. Back to camp for lunch overlooking the waterhole. The constant chatterer of woodswallows overhead had us wondering just how many there were! In the afternoon, as they started to move away, the flocks were joined by over 200 budgies who flew in a tighter flock.

Budgerigar

It briefly hit 21ºC mid afternoon as we tidied up the camp and prepared to leave tomorrow. We do like this National Park, but like many other places we wish the smaller birds were more prominent as we saw no thornbills, gerygones or finches. We had to be content with the scratchy sounds of White-cheeked Honeyeater and the calls of the White-plumed Honeyeater, called Canaries by some locals, around the camp.

Day 23 15/5/21

Another trip record broken with the temperature going down to 1ºC this morning. Had porridge for breakfast to get us going. Packed up and got away at 7.42am heading to Hungerford only 20km away. Reached the NSW-QLD border gates at Hungerford, where Lindsay opened the gate to let us into NSW to continue south along the Dowling Track.

The Gates at Hungerford Border Crossing

The road was sandy, a few corrugations, patches of bulldust and gravel, but not too bad if you kept to around 60-70kph. Stopped for coffee at a creek adjacent to Naree Station Reserve, a conservation property owned by Bush Heritage. Lindsay took over driving for the next half hour and was lucky to get a few patches of bitumen. There was as few new sections of bitumen as we neared Bourke, a relief from the sandy/gravel sections. Arrived in Bourke just before mid-day and stopped at the information centre, which did not have much to offer apart from Bourke information. Then headed to the Spar grocery store to stock up on supplies before booking into the Mitchell Caravan Park. Our site was right next to the main road, which had lots of noisy trucks passing. Few new trip ticks in the park included Bluebonnet, Little Crow and Common Blackbird! Cooling down for another cold night.

Little Crow
Day 24 16/5/21

Only got down to 3ºC this morning. Noisy music was playing till well after 4.00am, but the frequency of trucks was much less. A few birds around the park including European Starling flying over and eight Bluebonnet foraging on the grass. Cooked breakfast, scrambled eggs and bacon on toast before finishing packing and heading out to fuel up at the BP ($1.40lt). Then off to the Bourke Water Treatment Works, no access and only a few Grey Teal and Hardhead and a Reed Warbler was heard in the reeds. The best birds were a few parties of White-winged Fairy-wren along the entrance road. Then set off south turning onto the Louth Road. Mainly gravel road with a few bits of bitumen. Saw some raptors overhead so we stopped to find Black-breasted Buzzard and two Little Eagle. These birds were undoubtedly attracted to a Kangaroo carcass on the road, which another person had stopped to remove from off the road as we arrived. Continued on and turned into the Yanda campground road in Gundabooka National Park, where we parked up for morning coffee. Then checked out the backwaters of the Darling River and found a couple of groups of Australian Wood Duck and Grey Teal along with a few other waterbirds plus a pair of Red-capped Robin.

Red-capped Robin - female

Then made our way along the road to Rose Isle Station Farm Stay, passing lots of feral goats, some behind fences, where they were being harvested.

Old Bedford Truck

We were greeted at the farm stay by Samantha and her two meet and greet miniature Dachshund. Set up camp and had lunch. Spent the afternoon talking to fellow travellers and birding. Good birds were Red-tailed Black-cockatoo, Striated Pardalote. Splendid Fairy-wren and Grey Fantail who were probably heading north. Also saw an Echidna along one of the muddy river channels. Had an evening meal in the cookshed and talked to a group of bikers, pleasant evening. Going cold again.

Day 25 17/5/21

Yes it was cold overnight 0.2ºC, another record cold morning. Managed to function after a restless night due to eating too much at last nights dinner! Had porridge for breakfast, which warmed us up enough to get our act together and set out for the day. We headed back to Gundabooka National Park and Bennetts Gorge picnic area for morning coffee.

Gundabooka National Park

We took the 500m walking track to the gorge and saw four Chestnut-breasted Quail-thrush, but were unable to get any decent photos of them, just a record shot (sub standard image). They were very flighty so we did not pursue them any further.

Chestnut-breasted Quail-thrush (record shot)

A party of Southern Whiteface were also nearby. Then we headed out to Dry Tank Campground for lunch and had the place to ourselves. After lunch went for a short walk and found White-browed Treecreeper, Crested Bellbird, Hooded and Red-capped Robin along with an immature Rufous Whistler.

Rufous Whistler - immature

From here we decided to take the Yanda Track back to the main road. The track was in good order with a grader working it’s way along it. Stopped at Yanda creek to do some birding, plenty of good birds here, but nothing new for us. Then back to our camp were we did a bit of birding. Promised Samantha some photos of the Splendid Fairy-wren. Both had showers before evening meal. Another cold night coming up as it was cooling down rapidly.

Day 26 18/5/21

Down to 2ºc this morning. Slow pack up due to frozen fingers! Eventually got away about 9.00am and headed to Louth, traveling through Goat country. Feral goats are harvested around here as extra income, they will never run out of them. We were told one station harvested 24,000 goats in two years! From Louth we took the Cobar Road, which is mainly unmade sand/gravel with a few bitumen sections in between. There is a long bitumen stretch, 5km + leading up to the Landsdowne Station entrance, where we stopped for morning coffee. Lindsay took over driving on what proved to be the better section of the road. Arrived in Cobar and parked up on the edge of the main shopping area opposite the Police Station. Had a quick look around before going to the recommended bakery for some rolls and custard tart. Had our lunch at Newey Reservoir and watched a few waterbirds. Coot were most numerous. Then onto the road to Nyngen, bitumen all the way for 130km passing by much cleared land for grain cropping and cotton growing. Booked into the Riverside Tourist Park and found an unpowered dusty site next to the Bogan River. Mainly Australian Pelican on the river with a few Pacific Black Duck, darters and cormorants.

Australian Pelican

Phoned a friend, who was familiar with the area, in the late afternoon, for advice about Pillager or Warrumbungle for visiting and camping, Warrumbungle won out.

Day 27 19/5/21

3ºC morning. Few birds on the Bogan River and Riverside Caravan Park, 60 Australian Pelican, plus 21 Red-rumped Parrot foraging on the Caravan Park grass. Photos of these delayed our departure.

Red-rumped Parrot - male and female

Left Nyngan on the Mitchell Highway south towards Dubbo and turned off at Neveretire onto the Oxley Highway to Warren. Lots of cleared land around here for grain cropping and cotton growing. Parked up beside the Macquarie River in Warren and went for a walk around town. Found a nice coffee shop for morning coffee and cake. Then off to the IGA supermarket to do some shopping. Was a good choice, good selection and a seniors discount! Booked into the Macquarie CP, set up, had lunch and a snooze. Then went over to the Warren Wetlands and Water Treatment Plant - Window on the Wetlands Centre, for some birding.

Warren Sewage Treatment Works

How Refreshing!

Good number of birds, lots of Pink-eared Duck and Grey Teal plus a few Chestnut Teal. Then back to camp to catch up with eBird surveys.

Pink-eared Duck and Grey Teal

Day 28 20/5/21

No rush today as we were not traveling. Slightly warmer morning down to 4ºC. Checked the birds around the caravan park and found a couple of Grey-crowned Babbler and a group of 14 White-winged Fairy-Wren, which included two males.

Grey-crowned Babbler

Lindsay did some washing before we went for a walk around Macquarie Park. Had four Spotted Bowerbirds, heard a Bar-shouldered Dove by the hospital and at last found a pair of Western Gerygone - 1st gerygone for the trip. Back for coffee and another walk, this time on the western side of the Warren Wetlands. Highlights were Superb Fairy-Wren, Brown Treecreeper and Restless Flycatcher.

Restless Flycatcher

Then off to Kookaburra Kiosk for lunch, inside a converted church, had to wait too long for our meal, I had Chicken Pasta and Lindsay had Chicken Soup, which arrived 15 minutes after mine, anyway the meals were very good. Followed this up with coffee and cake and chats with the locals.

Kookaburra Kiosk and Interpretive Centre

Back to camp to relax and have showers. Fixed a slight leak at a t-joint in the water pump plumbing, which was causing the pump not to operate properly. Did another bird survey of the park and had a party of White-winged Chough, along with a Straw-necked and Australian White Ibis. A few hundred Galah descended on the park to roost, but were sent on their way with a few shots from a scare gun.

Day 29 21/5/21

Warmer morning down to 6ºC. Packed up and had our usual cold morning porridge before going along the levee wall to check out the birds. A surprise was a pair of Black Falcon being chased by a group of Noisy Miner, who strangely could not keep up! Left at 9.10 and turned onto the Oxley Highway towards Gilgandra, where we stopped for morning coffee at a park in town then headed onto the Newell Highway. Roadworks along the highway held us up for a while and resulted in a long line of traffic. Once we got going a truck decided to try overtaking everyone so we pulled of at the next rest stop to let it go by along with the rest of the traffic. Continued along the highway until we took the Warrumbungle National Park turn off.

Warrumbungle Road

Drove into the park and stopped at the Warrumbungle Visitor Centre.

Warrumbungle Visitor Centre

We arrived two minutes late as the visitor centre closes for lunch between 12.00 and 1.00pm, so we headed off to our camp at Camp Blackman No 2.

Warrumbungle National Park Camp

Set up and had lunch before returning to the visitor centre. Had Yellow-rumped Thornbill and Diamond Firetail in the grounds. Met another couple from South Australia who were birding, they had just seen a Crested Shrike-tit, but we could not find it. Then went down to Canyon Picnic Area for afternoon coffee and some birding – not much around.

Warrumbungle National Park

Back to camp to do some more birding and met another couple from South Australia who were also birding. Getting dark early so had evening meal before 6.30pm – sausages, Broccoli and potatoes. Getting colder as the evening wore on, below the forecast 9ºC.

Day 30 22/5/21

Down to 8ºc this morning. Had a walk around the camping area before breakfast, scrambled egg and bacon on toast. Cleaned up and went for a walk along the Belougerie Flat Track, Lindsay did the first bit and returned to camp, I kept going and did the 5km Circuit. Quiet birdwise, but great scenery. Did have a very friendly party of eight Grey-crowned Babbler hop around my feet and a couple of Black-shouldered Kite. Back to camp for a break before heading out again onto the Blackman’s Track for about 3km round trip, did have a male Superb Fairy-wren and heard a Fan-tail Cuckoo. A male Australian King Parrot posed for a photo and a few Yellow-faced Honeyeater showed up. Lindsay had a good look at a Yellow-footed Antechinus, which was a nice surprise.

Australian King Parrot

Back for lunch and a rest. A baby Echidna came walking by in the camp ground creating a bit of excitement for the afternoon.

Echidna

Then headed off in the car to explore a few places, first up was the Old Woolshed for afternoon coffee, nothing much here apart from a party of Superb Fairy Wren. Then back to the Visitor Centre, where we had the best birding of the day. Stunning view of Spotted Pardalote and a new finch of the trip Double-barred!

Spotted Pardalote ssp xanthopyge

Along the Gurianawa Track around the Visitor Centre we had Restless Flycatcher, two Common Bronzewing and a Nankeen Kestrel. Back to camp to write up the days adventures and eBird surveys. Had a cuppa soup to warm up as once again the temperature was dropping quickly.

Day 31 23/5/21

2ºC outside, 4ºC inside the T-van. Up for a coffee and a 2km round trip to the National Park Sewage Pond. Only two Grey Teal on the pond, but around the outside there was Buff-rumped Thornbill and Eastern Spinebill both new trip ticks. Back for breakfast and to pack up before we headed to Coonabarabran,


We stopped at the Whitegum car park to walk the 500m track to the lookout, well worth the effort.

Whitegum Lookout

Birding along the track was excellent, Inland and Buff-rumped Thornbill, Spotted Pardalote and best of all a pair of Speckled Warbler.

Speckled Warbler

Back at the car park there were several Weebill and a party of Superb Fairy-wren. Then onto Coonabarrabran, where we went to the information centre, which was pretty well stocked with brochures. From here we headed for Gunnedah stopping at Oxley’s Crossing for lunch. Another stop at Mullaley had us surrounded by over 100 House Sparrow with a few Zebra Finch and a lone Double-bar Finch. Arrived at Gunnedah and booked into the Gunnedah Tourist Caravan Park. Adjacent to the Caravan Park is a wetland park, which is quite run down, but held a few birds including Grey Teal and Australian Wood-Duck which were swimming around in the weedy water. Back for showers and to exchange a 3.7kg gas bottle for $28.00! Quick set up on the T-van tonight.

Day 32 24/5/21

Away by 8.00am, the advantage of using the quick set up for the night. From Gunnedah we travelled towards Tamworth, which is a big city compared to what we were used to, 60,000 people. Tried to stop at Victoria Park, but nowhere to park the car and T-van so we drove around until we could find a spot, which was behind the Woolworths shopping centre. Went into Woolworths café and grabbed a coffee and some raisin toast before topping up with a few food items. Left Tamworth for Armidale stopping at Uralla for a break. Here we noticed that there was a bird hide at nearby Dangars Lagoon so we headed off to have lunch there.

Dangars Lagoon

It was quite windy, which made it very cold about 13º, but there were lots of birds to see on the Lagoon. Good birds included Musk Duck, Blue-billed Duck, Australian Shoveller and 123 Pink-eared Duck also plenty of Australasian Grebe.

Australasian Grebe

From the lagoon it was a short drive to Armidale. Drove around the town before going out to our friend's house. Spent the rest of the day chatting before we had dinner – Salmon and vegies, very nice. Nice to retire to a bedroom instead of the T-van for a change!

Day 33 25/5/21

Lie in until 7.00am, too cold outside. Eventually up for a coffee and to sort out the T-van. Breakfast before going for a walk around the property with David and his two Labradors. Saw Brown-headed and White-naped Honeyeater, Rainbow Lorikeet was only heard flying over. Then we went back to Dangars Lagoon with our friend. This time lots of Hoary-headed Grebe, Pink-eared Duck numbers rose to 148, six Musk Duck, two Black Swan, Australasian Shoveler and Eurasian Coot.

Musk Duck - female

Then back for lunch at a The Alternative Root café along the main street in Uralla.

The Alternative Root Café

Then out to Inbota Nature Reserve, a small patch of remnant woodland, pretty quiet with Grey Fantail, Weebill. White-throated Treecreeper and Grey Butcherbird were heard only. From here we headed back into town for a quick tour of the city. Interesting blend of old and new buildings, plus a lot of small specialty shops. Then back to Armidale for showers and evening meal, roast lamb-yum.

Day 34 26/5/21

Another cold morning as usual. Put the tent up on the T-van to dry it out as it had dew on it from last pack up. After breakfast we headed out some 50km to the Gwydir Travelling Stock Reserve, where there is a good patch of woodland. Again very quiet, spent a few hours here, but not much to show for it, Eastern Yellow Robin was the best bird we saw.

Eastern Yellow Robin

So went back to Armidale, where we had a toasted sandwich and coffee for lunch. Wandered around town ending up in the Coles shopping centre, where I got a well needed haircut and beard trim. Lindsay did a bit of food shopping to top up our supplies. Back at our friends place Lindsay cooked up a delicious chicken curry. Spent the evening dodging in and out watching an eclipse of the moon and checking a moth trap Freezing cold again, so to a nice warm bed in the house.

Day 35 27/5/21

-2º C in Armidale overnight, frost on the ground. Slow start to the day before breakfast and sorting the T-van and hooking it up. Nearly 11.00am before we said goodbye to our friend's, who we must thank for making us very welcome and looking after us. Best of all they kept us wimpy northerners nice and warm in their house. We headed out of town, making it to the Lions Park at Bundara by the Gwydir River, which is a good camp spot, but we were only here for lunch. Good birds here included Variegated Fairy-wren and Musk Lorikeet. Then continued on to free camp at Sunnyside Riverside Camp near Bingarra. Started out as another good campsite until a crazy neighbour arrived set on fishing from his kayak. He caught two Murray Cod and was yelling and shouting about with every second word the “F” word. More paperwork in the evening as it cooled down, had a few mice running around and an Eastern Barn Owl called.

Eastern Barn Owl - (file photo)

Day 36 28/5/21

Crazy neighbour left the radio on until 1.30am, keeping us awake. About 5.00am he banged on the T-van asking for help as his radio had flattened his battery when he fell asleep in his chair. We were not impressed as it was near freezing outside. I got dressed and got our Jump Start Battery out as the Eastern Barn Owl called again. He said he had jumper leads, but they were no good as our car was hooked up to the T-van. He had not seen a Lithium jump start battery, why was I not surprised! Anyway got him started and went back to bed as the temperature dropped to 0ºC. No apology from him ,but he did go much to our relief. Went for a short walk to find the crazy neighbour had left his fire burning and fish guts on the river bank – say no more. Surveyed the waterbirds on the river. Had a cooked breakfast and packed up before going into Bingarra where we stopped to checked out the information Centre and have a good coffee in their café. Next stop Moree, where we booked into the Mehi River Van Park. Set up, had lunch and a snooze before going into the information Centre. Decided to go to the Tareelaroi Weir, which was a bit further than we thought (22km). Nothing special here with Crested Pigeon being the most obvious.

Crested Pigeon

So we returned to the T-van for dinner. It was quite noisy with trucks and hoons on motorbikes and cars. Yet another cold night ahead.

Day 37 29/5/21

Managed to sleep OK as the traffic noise died down a little. Awoke to another cold start, 3ºC and the news that unfortunately three vehicles had been broken into during the night. The Police arrived to take the details. Porridge was the order for breakfast before we went of to try and find Whittakers Lagoon. Missed the Lagoon due to lousy map reader and kept going before we turned around and went to Combadello Weir for morning coffee. Turned out to be some of the best birding for a few days. Highlight was an Oriental Cuckoo (f) sitting low down on a small bush. Other good birds included a pair of White-bellied Sea-Eagle, 16 Eastern Rosella on the road feeding with Cockatiel and Galah, Yellow-rumped Thornbill and a pair of Striated Pardalote on the buildings as well as the barbed wire of the weir.

Striated Pardalote ssp substriatus

Went back and found Whittakers Lagoon, but a quick look revealed no birds so we kept going ending up at the Moree Common. Highlight here was a Square-tailed Kite, which was being harassed by Noisy Miner and a Spotted Pardalote.

Square-tailed Kite

By now it was lunch time so we decided to go to Yarraman Bridge on the River Gwydir.

Yarraman Bridge on the River Gwydir

Found a spot by the river and had some new trip ticks, a pair of White-browed Scrubwren and a party of Plum-headed Finch. Spiny-cheeked Honeyeater were a tick for NSW this trip. Then back into town to try to swap a gas bottle, but no 3.7kg bottles in town, tried five garages. Back to camp for a relaxing afternoon and a shower as it was cooling down.